Following in the footsteps of the stars (and Michelin inspectors): My jaw-dropping foodie tour of three incredible hotels in the breathtaking Bay of Naples

The Bay of Naples, with its alluring islands and beautiful beaches, has always been a magnet for stars.

From Grace Kelly and Sophia Loren, to Mariah Carey and Sofia Vergara, celebrities came for the sun, scenery and spectacular places to stay.

These days the region is nurturing another kind of star – those delivered by famed food bible the Michelin Guide.

Naples, Sorrento and Capri, once key stops on the traditional 18th-century Grand Tour undertaken by the upper classes to broaden their minds and complete their education, are opening up their history and cuisine to an appreciative new audience – including me and my wife.

We followed in the Michelin inspectors’ footsteps, embarking on a seven-day, gourmet Italian culinary adventure to eat at starred restaurants housed in grande dame hotels that once welcomed aristocrats from all over Europe and, later, America.

GRAND HOTEL PARKER’S – NAPLES

Ian Walker enjoyed a seven-day, gourmet Italian culinary adventure in the Bay of Naples. His first stop was Grand Hotel Parker’s, Naples (above)

We began at one of the best: the historic Grand Hotel Parker’s, Naples, a five-star treasure dating from 1870.

With its restaurant, George, having been awarded a second Michelin star just months ago, it seemed a fitting place to begin.

Parker’s – which has 67 newly renovated rooms and overlooks the Bay of Naples in the exclusive Chiaia district – is an oasis of calm, and our executive suite had a generosity of space unusual in a city hotel.

Particularly impressive is the mini bar designed to look like an antique steamer trunk, plus a well-stocked drinks trolley adorned with the official 007 cocktail book.

The huge bed was blissfully comfortable and the bathroom modern with elegant Floris toiletries.

Ian tried out the tasting menu at Grand Hotel Parker’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant, George (above)

Sunrise revealed the view over the city to the isle of Capri and Mount Vesuvius, which was particularly impressive from the sixth-floor terrace, open for all-day dining.

We walked off the calories from breakfast by heading into the city centre, down stone stairs and pretty streets to the Spanish quarter’s ancient passageways, before reaching the imposing Piazza Del Plebiscito. 

Returning to the hotel through the Liberty Facade entrance was like a step back in time, with the striking lobby little changed since wealthy English marine biologist George Parker Bidder first acquired the hotel in 1889.

In 1948 the hotel was bought at auction by lawyer Francesco Paolo Avallone, who restored it to its former glory. 

Fourth-generation hotelier Giovanni Torre Avallone was born into the business and it shows.

Above is the ‘striking’ Grand Hotel Parker’s lobby. Entering it is like taking ‘a step back in time’

He tells us his family see Parker’s as an extension of their home – and what a home it is: stunning art, antiques and sculptures from the Avallone personal collection are dotted throughout the hotel. 

Illustrious guests through the years have included Virginia Woolf, Oscar Wilde, Clark Gable, Lenin and David Bowie.

During the 1994 G7 Summit Boris Yeltsin and his entourage stayed, holding meetings with Silvio Berlusconi and John Major.

The intriguingly named Bidder Bar – Bond Point 0025, is a prime spot to enjoy a pre-dinner drink with a dizzying 283-drinks-long cocktail list, dedicated to James Bond.

George restaurant is presided over by a man less chef and more alchemist, Naples native Domenico Candela. 

Tasting menu highlights included the ‘finger foods’ opener – tiny morsels of ecstasy including a miniature steamed pizza and an imitation olive that explodes with flavour – a sublime palate cleanser that’s a heavenly mix of every sherbert lemon you ever tasted and a glorious tarte that justifies its menu description of ‘this is not a dessert, it’s a poem’.

Wine pairings were given equal attention by expert sommelier Enrico Moschella.

In two days we barely scratched the surface of Naples.

GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA – SORRENTO

We joined the holiday traffic and arrived at the striking Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento, just in time for its 190th birthday celebrations. 

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is believed to have been built on the site where a villa owned by the Emperor Augustus once stood

Ian checked in to Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria as the property celebrated its 190th birthday 

Comprising three interlinked buildings, the 80-room Grand Vittoria is believed to have been built on the site where, 2,000 years earlier, a villa owned by the Emperor Augustus once stood.

Since then Sorrento has become a magnet for travellers from around the world, with the hotel a favourite stop for those on the Grand Tour.

Its public spaces pay homage to a bygone era, with antique furniture and art works adorning the Art Nouveau-style Winter Garden, Belle Epoque Music Room and suites dedicated to past guests such as Princess Margaret and Enrico Caruso.

Other famous visitors include Sophia Loren, Luciano Pavarotti, Jack Lemon, Pierce Brosnan and Barbara Streisand.

The Michelin one-star Terrazza Bosquet and two other restaurants – the Orangerie, situated in the verdant five-acre garden, and the Terrazza Vittoria, with arguably the best view in Sorrento – are all supervised by executive chef Antonio Montefusco. 

The produce either comes from the hotel garden or trusted local suppliers.

A jolly Friday dinner for nearly 100 people was a triumph. 

Staff moved like a well-oiled machine, setting up gingham-clad tables under orange and lemon trees, with food carts serving classics like melanzane alla parmigiana, sautéed potatoes, shellfish, charcuterie and cheeses.

A sumptuous buffet was served from 7.30am in the imposing Vittoria dining room with frescoed ceilings and tables arranged to enjoy views over the coast. 

Excelsior Vittoria’s ‘imposing’ dining room, which features frescoed ceilings 

A steep couple of hours hike up the San Costanzo Mountain followed – worth it for the breathtaking views and lovely seafood lunch in the delightful fishing village of Marina della Lobra.

Returning to the Vittoria, we made full use of our beautifully appointed sea-view suite’s stylish marble bathroom, complete with bathtub, then dressed-up for the black-tie Anniversary Gala. 

Guests congregated on the beautiful cliff-top terrace, glasses of fizz in hand, to gaze out at the glittering water busy with boats, with Vesuvius and Capri beyond. 

Brunch the next day included more coffee on that famous terrace, which also boasts a private lift to take guests 50 metres down to the harbour and the ferries to Naples, Ischia and Capri.

The next morning we joined the long hot queue to board the hydrofoil to Capri, our final destination. 

PUNTA TRAGARA – CAPRI

The airless voyage took a sweaty 25 minutes and it was a relief to be met by a jaunty white uniformed staff member from Punta Tragara, our home for the next two nights.

Dreamy: Ian’s final hotel – Punta Tragara on the island of Capri. It provides a view of the dramatic Faraglioni rock formation below

Ian writes: ‘As you approach [Punta Tragara] along the Via Tragara, the hotel appears clinging to the cliffs, all terracotta curves, plus ledges with two pools’

He arranged our luggage transfer and taxi to Capri’s main square, then it was a 15-minute pleasant, but uphill, walk from the centre of town.

As you approach along the Via Tragara, the hotel appears clinging to the cliffs, all terracotta curves, plus ledges with two pools.

Built as a private villa for a wealthy Italian engineer in 1920 by Le Corbusier, the house was headquarters for the American Command during World War II and played host to Eisenhower and Churchill. 

Punta Tragara was built as a private villa for a wealthy Italian engineer in 1920 by Le Corbusier and served as headquarters for the American Command during World War II 

In 1968, it was purchased by an Italian count as a holiday home and in 1973 he began welcoming paying guests.

Today it is a luxury five-star hotel with 44 individually styled rooms and suites reflecting the lively character of Capri. 

Ours, room 50, had a huge patio with sunbeds, dining furniture and an electric awning. 

Punta Tragara offers 44 ‘individually styled rooms and suites reflecting the lively character of Capri’

The indoor furnishings were lovely, and the bathroom was quite ‘showbiz’, with a dark, moody, tiled bath lit by low-level green lights.

But the show-stopper was the outdoor space, which offered joyous views of the sea and Marina Piccola below.

Dinner at the one-Michelin-starred Le Monzu featured food from skilful young chef Antonio Pedana. 

We chose the Through the Waves tasting menu, with dishes such as cuttlefish with sea urchins and green apple, as well as tataki-breaded amberjack with lemon and pine nut sauce.

The ‘pina colada’ dessert will linger longest in my mind.

To say Capri is busy would be an understatement, but the spectacular Punta Tragara promontory location of the hotel is slightly off the beaten track for the majority of tourists. 

It provides a view of the dramatic Faraglioni rock formation below and is a great starting point for a scenic walk into the main town. 

There are many attractions – a funicular, chair lift and numerous grottos – but for a short visit we found meandering through the less populated passageways and elevated island paths the best way to absorb the unique atmosphere.

After the day-trippers returned to the mainland, the Capri Rooftop Lounge, adjacent to the Gardens of Augustus, provided a lovely stop on our final early evening stroll.

The hotel’s transfer to Naples airport, €350 (£290) for two, eased the process.

The Grand Tour is long gone, but the future for tourism in Italy is bright.

TRAVEL FACTS 

The Bay of Naples has always been a magnet for glamorous travellers

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria offers rooms starting from £500 per night on a B&B basis, based on two people sharing a garden view room. Visit exvitt.it

Punta Tragara

Punta Tragara, Capri, has rooms available from £520 per room per night, based on two adults sharing a room on a B&B basis. Visit hoteltragara.com

Grand Parker’s

Standard double room from around £430 per night, including breakfast and garage parking. Visit grandhotelparkers.it 

RATINGS 

Pros: Exquisite service, fabulous food and drink, scenery to feed the soul.

Cons: Sorrento and Capri, and Naples to a lesser extent, are best seen on foot, but are hilly with cobbles and uneven pavements which may be difficult for those less mobile.

Ratings out of five

Grand Hotel Parker’s – 5

Grand Excelsior Vittoria – 4.5

Punta Tragara – 4.5