Women under 30 are using strong anti-ageing skincare products far too early – and it’s making them look much older than they are.
As a result, dermatologist Dr Niyati Sharma is warning women against adding harsh actives, in particular retinol, to their routine before they turn 30.
Speaking to FEMAIL, Dr Sharma explained that the strong skincare ingredient can be damaging for young skin and actually ‘speed up’ the ageing process.
‘What people need to understand is that if used on skin that is too young, the skin barrier can be damaged and retinoids will do more harm than good,’ she said.
Young people have become more aware of the ‘super ingredient’ through TikTok where – often young – beauty influencers constantly brag about the benefits.
Dermatologist Dr Niyati Sharma warned against adding retinol to your routine too early
And while Dr Sharma acknowledges there are many benefits – including a reduction in fine lines, pigmentation and uneven skin texture – it must be used with caution.
She says 30 is the age when people should consider adding retinoids to their skincare routine and that it should be done under the guidance of a professional.
‘Speaking to a dermatologist or even a GP will take the guesswork out of skincare and ensure you are using something that is right for your skin,’ Dr Sharma said.
Dr Sharma works with Moshy, the women’s online health platform which boasts its own range of prescription skincare.
‘A doctor can prescribe something that will be much stronger than what’s available over the counter in beauty stores, providing advice on the best way to use and apply it for the desired outcome.’
Worryingly, Dr Sharma says children as young as eight are getting into skincare because of its popularity online.
She says as skin ages it requires different treatments and has revealed her rough guide to assist.
Tweens 8-12
Tween skin is thinner and more sensitive than teen or adult skin and it doesn’t need much help (if any). A gentle cleanser, simple moisturiser and daily sunscreen is adequate. No active ingredients and avoid fragrance.
Teens
Cleanse the face morning and night, gentle moisturiser and light daily sunscreen. A cleanser with acne fighting ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids can help with mild cases of acne. A GP or dermatologist can help with more serious cases of acne.
Twenties
If you didn’t develop a regular skincare routine as a teenager, now is the time to start, but there’s no need for anything too complex.
If used regularly, cleanser, serum (vitamin C or niacinamide), moisturiser and sunscreen will be enough.
‘Speaking to a dermatologist or even a GP will take the guesswork out of skincare and ensure you are using something that is right for your skin,’ Dr Sharma said
Thirties
This is the decade when skin cell turnover starts slowing down, contributing to dryness, dullness and increased appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
Using retinol (a potent vitamin A derivative) is now appropriate. However, it is best introduced under the guidance of a medical professional.
A basic routine should involve cleanser, serum, moisturiser and sunscreen. In the evening, add the retinol and an eye cream.
Forties and beyond
With perimenopause and menopause setting in, skin starts to become dry. You’ll want to stick with the same routine established in your thirties, but make sure you are using extra hydrating products.
Add retinoid if possible, with a prescription from a dermatologist or GP, to address sun-damaged skin, wrinkles and pigmentary issues.
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